Hiking through the canyon of Santiago Apoala

Santiago Apoala / Sierra Mixteca

The Valley where Humanity was born

There are places that stay with you long after you leave them. For us, Santiago Apoala is one of those places.

Nestled deep within the Sierra Mixteca of Oaxaca, Apoala is a small village surrounded by towering cliffs, waterfalls, caves, and a river that winds through a spectacular canyon. It is a place of extraordinary beauty, but what makes it truly special is the story it carries and the people who call it home.

We have been visiting Apoala since 1999, almost from the very beginning of Tierra Ventura. In those days, reaching the village was an adventure in itself. The road was rough, rocky, and often in terrible condition. More than once, we wondered if we would have to stop visiting because the journey was taking such a toll on our vehicles. Today, the road is paved, making Apoala much more accessible and opening the door for more visitors to discover its beauty.

Yet for us, Apoala is much more than a destination.

Over the years, we have built deep friendships with the families who live here. The children, the elders, the shopkeepers, the guides—everyone knows us as Tía and Tío Ventura. Sometimes we joke that even the dogs recognize us when we arrive. Returning to Apoala feels less like traveling and more like coming home.

For the Mixtec people, Apoala is not just a beautiful valley. It is the place where humanity began.

Ancient Mixtec codices tell the story of the Tree of Life that once stood here. Its fruits fell into the sacred waters, and from those fruits the first humans were born. The river carried them out into the world, spreading life across the earth.

We have always loved this story. It offers a different way of understanding our origins—one that sees humanity not as separate from nature, but as emerging directly from it. To imagine a tree as our ancestor is both humbling and beautiful.

As we walk through the narrow canyon leading into the village, we often joke that it feels like moving through the womb of Mother Earth herself. Water flows between the canyon walls, nourishing everything in its path. It is easy to understand why the Mixtecs saw this place as a source of life and creation.

Even after all these years, Apoala continues to touch us deeply. The waterfall, the river, the sacred stories, and the warmth of the community create an atmosphere that is difficult to describe and impossible to forget.

In a world that moves increasingly fast, places like Apoala remind us of something essential: our connection to the land, to the stories that shaped us, and to the communities that keep those stories alive.

We invite you to come and experience this magical valley for yourself. Walk the canyon, listen to the river, hear the ancient stories, and discover why Santiago Apoala has captured our hearts for more than twenty-five years.